Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a picture-perfect German town, famous for its well-preserved medieval old town that looks straight out of a fairy tale. It was part of our 7-Day Bavaria Road Trip Itinerary, and in this post, we share how to visit Rothenburg ob der Tauber and what to see and do while you’re there.
We stayed in Rothenburg for two nights and would recommend spending at least a full day in this beautiful town to enjoy it at a leisurely pace.
A Bit of History
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is more than 700 years old. It was founded in the 12th century by Konrad von Hohenstaufen, who built the Staufer Castle there. The city began to grow and expand with the construction of St. James’ Church, the city walls, and its many towers. By the 13th century, Rothenburg had become one of the largest cities in the Holy Roman Empire.
The name of the city translates from German as “Red Castle above the Tauber,” referring to its red roofs and its position overlooking the Tauber River.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber continued to grow and develop until the 17th century, when the Thirty Years’ War swept through Central Europe, depleting the town of its wealth. Remarkably, most of the old town we see today has remained largely unchanged since that time.
In the 19th century, Rothenburg ob der Tauber became part of Bavaria.
Rothenburg During the Nazi Period and World War II
During the Nazi era, Rothenburg ob der Tauber was promoted as an idealised German town – “the most German of German towns.” It symbolised traditional German values and architecture, and the regime organised regular day trips to Rothenburg from across the Reich. As you can see, it was a popular tourist destination long before our time!
At the end of World War II in 1945, Allied forces bombed Rothenburg ob der Tauber, destroying around 40% of the old town. In the post-war period, many of the damaged areas were carefully rebuilt. However, the town was spared from further destruction by artillery thanks to a negotiated surrender. Local German soldiers agreed to lay down their arms in exchange for the Allies’ promise to preserve the town. Thanks to that decision, we can still admire the beauty of Rothenburg’s old town today.
Walk Through the Old Town
The main attraction when visiting Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the old town itself. Allow plenty of time to wander its cobbled streets, admire the timber-framed houses, and take in the historical landmarks. Stroll along the city wall and see how many gates and towers you can count as you go.
Old Town Walls
We stayed in a bed and breakfast just outside the old town walls and began our visit at the Röder city gate (Rödertor) and tower (Röderturm), one of the main entrances into Rothenburg’s historic centre.
If you enter via Rödertor, you’ll find the entrance to access the city wall. You can walk in either direction along the wall, with lovely views of the old town opening up from various vantage points.
Old Town Gates and Towers
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is surrounded by a series of gates and towers that add to its medieval charm. Be sure to walk around and try to spot them all.
In addition to Rödertor, you’ll find Galgentor (Gallows Gate), Klingentor at the northern entrance to the town, Burgtor (Castle Gate), Kobolzeller Gate and Tower, and Spitaltor (Spital Gate). Most of the towers are linked by the old city wall, which encircles the town for roughly 4 kilometres.
Spitaltor, also known as the Hospital Gate, features a 16th-century bastion with inner courtyards and its own gates. We wandered around and discovered a wooden bridge over a dry moat, along with some old cannons tucked inside the bastion. On the gate, we spotted a Latin inscription: “Pax intrantibus, salus exeuntibus.” Later, I looked up the translation – “Peace to those who enter, Hail to those who go out.”
Don’t miss the old towers of Markusturm and Weisserturm. Built in the early 13th century, they were part of Rothenburg ob der Tauber’s original fortifications and remain striking examples of medieval architecture.
Burggarten and the Viewpoint
Burggarten (the Castle Garden) and Burgtor (the Castle Gate) stand on the site of the original castle, where the city of Rothenburg was first founded. The castle was destroyed by an earthquake in 1356, and in its place, the Castle Gate with its tower and the peaceful Burggarten were built.
Burggarten is a lovely place to relax and take a break from walking. It also offers a fantastic viewpoint overlooking the valley below, with sweeping views of the red rooftops and towers of Rothenburg ob der Tauber. From here, it’s easy to see how the town got its name – “Red Castle above the Tauber.”
Marktplatz (Market Square)
Marktplatz has been the central square of Rothenburg ob der Tauber since the Middle Ages, and it remains the heart of the town to this day.
Marktplatz is home to several historical landmarks. There’s a water fountain built in 1446, featuring a statue of St. George slaying a dragon.
The Rathaus (Town Hall) showcases layers of history. Its rear Gothic section dates back to the 13th century, the Renaissance facade was added in the 16th century, and the Baroque-style arcade followed in the 17th century.
You’ll also find the former butcher’s and dance hall – now St. Mary’s Pharmacy – the beautiful Renaissance-style Baumeisterhaus (which houses a restaurant), and other notable buildings that reflect Rothenburg’s rich architectural heritage.
Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower
Next to the Rathaus stands the Ratstrinkstube, or Councilor’s Tavern, with its charming clock tower. Every hour between 10 a.m. and 10 p.m., the clock comes to life: its doors open, music plays, and two mechanical figures appear – a legendary mayor and a count – reenacting a famous local tale.
According to legend, in 1631 during the Thirty Years’ War, Rothenburg ob der Tauber was seized by the imperial army led by Count Tilly and faced imminent destruction. In the Ratstrinkstube tavern, the townspeople offered the count a massive jug of local wine in an attempt to appease him. Amused, Count Tilly proposed a challenge: if anyone could drink the entire jug (a 3.5-litre tankard) in one go without stopping, he would spare the town. The mayor, Georg Nusch, rose to the occasion. He drank the entire tankard in a single draught. True to his word, Count Tilly withdrew his troops. The town was saved, and Bürgermeister Nusch became a local legend.
So now, when you see the two figures appear at the Ratstrinkstube Clock, you’ll know what it’s all about – Count Tilly and Bürgermeister Nusch, and the legendary tankard of wine that saved the town.
We actually overheard this story one evening while walking through Marktplatz, as a guide was telling it to a group of tourists. Later, I found out it was part of the Night Watchman tour (you can book it via GetYourGuide).
Plönlein
Plönlein is perhaps the most photographed spot in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. The name translates from German as “small square at a fountain”, and that’s exactly what you’ll find – a quaint square in front of a yellow timber-framed house with a small fountain. Framed by two old towers and cobbled streets leading off in either direction, it creates a postcard-perfect scene that captures the fairy tale charm of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
When we visited, unfortunately, some repair work was underway – and our photos were dotted with bright red cones. So much for the fairy tale postcard shot! 🙂
Museums
There are several museums worth visiting in Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
One of the most well-known is the Medieval Crime Museum – though I’d be tempted to call it a torture museum! Many of its exhibitions focus on punishment and the various instruments of torture used in medieval times. Since we were travelling with kids, we decided to skip it, but it’s a popular stop for tourists and is considered Europe’s largest museum dedicated to legal history. For details on opening hours and exhibitions, check their web-site.
The Rothenburg Museum – also known as the Imperial Town Museum – is the place to go if you want to dive deeper into the town’s history. Its exhibitions include old weapons, artwork, and other historical artefacts. One highlight is the legendary 3.5-litre tankard, said to be the very one used by Mayor Nusch to drink the wine and save the city. For current opening hours and details, check their web-site.
The Christmas Museum is open year-round and features a charming collection of old and rare Christmas decorations. It also offers insights into festive traditions such as Advent calendars, Christmas pyramids, nutcrackers, and more. For current details and opening hours, check their web-site.
Christmas Shop
Next to the Christmas Museum is Kathe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Shop, which is also open year-round. It offer huge collection of Christmas decorations for sale – from delicate ornaments to handcrafted toys. If you love festive traditions and holiday decor, you could easily spend an hour just browsing and admiring the displays.
I must admit, we spent nearly an hour in the shop and left with over two hundred euros’ worth of unique and beautiful German Christmas decorations. Now, each time we decorate the house for Christmas with the toys we bought at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Shop, we’re reminded of our holiday in Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber at Night
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a popular tourist destination, and its streets are usually bustling during the day. But as evening falls and the day-visitors depart, the town becomes noticeably quieter. We highly recommend spending a night here to experience the old town after dark – less crowded, more peaceful, and beautifully illuminated. With its glowing half-timbered houses and cobbled streets, Rothenburg feels even more magical.
We spent two nights in Rothenburg ob der Tauber before continuing our Bavarian road trip. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is now on our list of places to return to. Perhaps next time, we will visit during the Christmas season to experience the town’s winter magic.
Read next: My post about another fairy-tale town – Hallstatt in Austria.
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German towns are my dream and this one looks
just fabulous. Love the beautiful gates..
Hi Elena. We love road trips in Germany but haven’t been to Rothenburg ob de Tauber yet. We like Nuremberg so next time we’re there we need to see this neat town. I’m fascinated with German city walls and gates and I would love to walk these.
We liked Nuremberg too, and Rothenburg is only a short drive from there – a nice idea for a one-day trip.
We’ve still never been to Germany, and really want to. Rothenburg looks like a delightful cross between Bruges and Tallinn from our own travels.
So much information! Thank you! I am particularly interested in WWII history, so I appreciated that tidbit. Glad the town was (sort of) spared.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber Is such a wonderful town. I’d love to be able to see the whole town by walking along the outer walls. The medieval crime and justice museum would be interesting I think!